Giles Deacon for New Look

I'm not usually a fan of New Look collaborations; however prestigious the designer (e.g Giles Deacon), the collections inevitably become tainted by that New Look blemish of cheap fabrics, gaudy prints and unflattering, generic tailoring.

However, I must admit that the new seasons' Giles Deacon collection is a revelation; Erdem- esque prints, lady- like Louis Vuitton inspired silhouettes and accessories, and a strict minimalism in terms of palette, cut and embellishment.


The only qualms I have are over the (seemingly) lurex, batwing tops, embellished with an unoriginal web of sequins. And that's it. I love the prom dress, the shift dresses, the curve hugging, off the shoulder, Mad Men inspired one... I even covet the pretty, Louis Vuitton- tribute 'mini stilettos'. And to think 6 months ago I was aghast at the very thought of a less than 4 inch heel!

I Want...

A cropped Aran knit jumper, as shown by Dolce & Gabbana in their A/W '10 collection. Perhaps not red precisely, although that rich scarlet wool does have a certain appeal.
No, I would prefer the classic cream version, cropped and thinly knitted to reduce bulk, and belted with a slim leather belt, a la D & G.

For the present inclement summer weather, this knit is perfection when paired with short shorts and boots; snug but yet suitable for the wind chill factor. Come autumn, follow Miuccia Prada's lead and layer over the new skirt shape du jour. Knee length and A line, waist definition is again brought by the addition of a skinny patent belt; glamour by Belle Epoque- style stilettos and seductively coiffed hair.

The New Chic

The coming Autumn/ Winter '10 has been hailed by many of the industry's most notable soothsayers as the dramatic rejection of the ostentatious glamour and exaggerated trends that epitomised the Noughties. Instead, minimalistic, sculpted refinement has clawed it's way back to the periphery of 'cool', led by a all woman cast of designers that include Celine's Phoebe Philo, Frida Giannini at Gucci and Stella McCartney. These trend ideals will prove difficult for the high street masses to emulate, for it relies on the luxe appeal of expensive fabrics, tailoring and classic accessories- and there isn't a sequin in sight.

Just a quick glance at street style blogs such as 'The Sartorialist' and Garance Dore will promote the advantages of luxurious, minimal, almost masculine clothes. Character is expressed in the individualistic manner of accessorising; soft brown leather, a metallic edge to your jewellery and structured 'ladylike' handbags are all shown to be the way forward.


I particularly covet the return of the trouser; lean cigarette pants at Celine and Mulberry (shown above), just cropped to reveal a slender ankle; the high waisted, 70's style flares at Gucci, Chloe and Yves Saint Laurent (below), which, paired with a skinny belt, chiffon blouse and stacked heels, just screams ladylike glamour.



And finally, the biggest news this coming season is the return of the 'it coat'. This can come in a variety of equally desirable forms: the cape, the camel coat (choose MaxMara if you want a lifelong classic), Burberry's aviator shearling jackets, the duffel coat, anything structural and tweedy... I have a particular lust for Erdem's hooded, floral cape, which just conjures up images of strutting around, cocooned in fabric, pretending to be the Scottish Widows advert...

Icons: Inspiration and Adoration

The classic 'Breakfast at Tiffany's' poster hangs above my bed, the protagonist, heroine, ingenue and icon mutely observing my daily life. La Hepburn is undoubtedly the world's favourite muse, and this I cannot argue with; I fell under her spell of simplicity, elegance and a Givenchy wardrobe a long time ago.

No, what I disagree with is the lavish attribution of the term 'icon' to faces with less than 100% fashion credentials; the use of stylists is increasing evermore (to the extent that they themselves become the celebrity... Rachel Zoe, for instance) and true inspiration, creativity and sartorial savoir- faire is disappearing as quickly as the fashion victims appear.

So I present thus: my own 'icons', presented as I see them and their individual effect on my personal style and fashion knowledge. Their 'credentials' are variable, but for me, each are sartorial geniuses and have inimitable individual style.


Olivia Palermo, the quintessential Manhattan fashion girl; impeccably groomed, even more impeccably connected, she lives the socialite dream of endless parties, paparazzi and arm candy. However, she is also a lot more than that; her outfits are the last word in accessorizing, showcasing the newest of the 'hip' designers alongside highstreet and classic brands. Her signature, perhaps the very epitome of New York glamour, along with the glossy blow- dried waves of hair, is a fresh scarlet manicure- this particular habit cost me a bottle of red nail polish as I tried to emulate. Her style is 'high fashion casual'; never overdone, never try- hard, her polished manner of bringing together outfits in a way that is neither ostentatious or pretentious, but subtly chic, belying a style intuition that I can only dream of.